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SIR DONALD Aug 23/06

Sir Donald NW Ridge.Trail starts just past Wheeler Hut. First view of Sir Donald after 30 min in trees.Lots of waterfalls.Upper waterfalls- trail to lower bivy site goes left on bench below top waterfallCrossing Moraine.On way to lower Bivy. very good trail which is not visible.New tent. Site has room for lots of people, water, lock boxes and a throne.Small stream was 300 feet away behind tent.Sir_Donald_2006_08_22_020Sir Donald from lower Bivy Site. Some people continued on to the col but limited bivy sites -room for 2-3 narrow tents and sacks and no water. Also windy, extra hour with big pack and have to rappel bstarting up from the col at 5:30. Ridge is much more sustained than I expected. Lots 4th and low fifth class but many moves and problems at grade(5.4 to 5.5) on the ridge. Easy to find yourself doingRidge at 40+ degree with endless steeper steps which you go over or around. Lots of rap slings to clip into as well as cracks for cams.The raps all go down on left or north side so there are lots of tThe quartzite is getting polished in places - specific friction foot placements and as lead I was wishing that I had my rock shoes for the harder stuff when we got pushed off the ridge. My Trango's feWay too busy - there were 20 people that had climbed on sunday and 14 on Monday when we climbed. We got forced onto harder lines, crossed ropes or else had to wait.Rappel and down climb route. Bolted route starts on ridge for two raps and then turns down slabs/face at second big notch from left. Ends at white slabs/snow. We were getting tired and going slow so wLast rappell.One of the 50 crowded climbs2003_12_09_048P3060093
© Bill Kerr
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